During our lunch on Sunday, 9/29, and a great presentation by naturalist Jason about the geology of the Galápagos Islands, the ship was repositioned to Punta Suarez, on the western tip of Española. We made a dry landing and proceeded on an almost 3 hour walk with naturalist Pato leading our group. Boulders of all sizes made up most of the trail, so we couldn't safely watch the wildlife as we walked. Fortunately we made frequent stops, sometimes quite prolonged, to study the animals and birds all around us.
Yes, the lighthouse lover had to take a photo of one of the few lights we spotted.
Punta Suarez light from the Zodiac
NG Endeavour from our landing spot
We were greeted upon landing by marine iguanas. Most of these were mature marine iguanas. They lay together on the rocks to preserve body heat. They also swim (hence the name) and have a unique odor (their diet is mainly seaweed and algae). The marine iguana has a special gland near its nose which filters the excess salt (ingested while eating) from the blood, and it expels this through its nostrils--you can hear it, like a salty sneeze. On some of the closeup photos, you might see traces of this salty "snot".
Marine iguanas together on the rocks
Mature marine iguanas
Yes, it's looking at you!
Marine iguanas don't seem bothered when they crawl or park on top of each other
On the move over the rocks
Marine iguanas
The rocks are warm
Marine iguanas in the Galápagos archipelago vary from island to island. The different subspecies differ in coloring and in length (we saw much smaller adults on our last day when we were on Genovesa Island).
The marine iguanas don't always just lay around--this one is on the move!
Near the shore we also saw lava lizards (much smaller and solitary), sea lions, Española or Hood mockingbirds, a whimbrel and a Galápagos dove.
Lava lizards
Sea Lion (young)
Espanñola or Hood Mockingbird
Whimbrel
Galápagos dove
Several times on our shore excursions we observed sea lion pups nursing, but when the pregnant mothers give birth, the older pups are pushed off to fend for themselves so the newborn pups can suckle.
Most of the birds nest a little ways inland from the shore. The air was always filled with frigatebirds, gulls, and many other seabirds.
Magnificent frigatebird in flight (that's its name, not just an apt adjective)
We spotted a Galápagos hawk, then a pair. They are near the top of the food chain in the islands, although they have gone extinct on several of the islands (habitat disturbance by humans and introduction of exotic predators) and there are probably less than 200 nesting pairs left. We also saw a nest, not currently is use.
Next we came upon the waved albatross territory. This bird breeds almost exclusively on Española Island in the Galápagos--only about 20 breed on 2 other islands. We marveled at these amazing birds--fluffy white and brown chicks being fed an oily "upchuck" from the parents, several adults with chicks, and the albatross airport.
This is the waved albatross "landing strip"
And one comes in for a landing, right on cue!
These young pairs are strengthening their bonds by repeating the courtship rituals. They will leave the nesting areas in December and spend 4-5 months at sea, feeding. Pairs do not remain together during that time. In April they will return to Española, renew their bonds, court, mate, lay & incubate an egg, and raise their chick. Chicks are often cared for in "nurseries" as some adults fly out to sea for food and the others watch the chicks.
These 2 videos are a bit longer, but really show the unique courting rituals. These are young pairs and not as coordinated or adept as some of the more mature pairs might be.
We walked along some spectacular coastline and saw a few other species.
Española black finch
Marine iguanas, even along these high cliffs!
Colorful ground cover (a kind of sesuvium, I think)
A powerful blow hole--sounded like loud rolling thunder and the spray was incredible!
Swallowtail gull
Closer to the coast again and we were in the midst of the nesting areas for swallowtail gulls and Nazca boobies.
Nazca booby chick
Nazca Boobies
And a little beyond them, we came upon the blue-footed boobies.
Blue-footed Booby chick
What an afternoon!
Every evening we had a daily recap session and a briefing about the next day's activities. This was also a time for appetizers, cocktails, and lots of conversation. Then dinner (tuna this evening for me), a photography workshop and bed!
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